Rock Crawling 101
Crawling Basics & Building a Very Basic Wheelie King Crawler
By Tony
Arnold – StampedeProject.com
RC Car - January 2008
Rock
crawling or “crawling” is that hot growing category of RC’s with
mind-bending articulated bodies that test your driving skills to the max
while traversing seemingly impossible obstacles – going slow has never
been so much fun. Crawlers originated from home made rock crawlers with
parts from here and a few parts even fabricated. Slowly a few chassis
skeletons become available that allowed for easier builds, but you still
needed to salvage axels and transmissions from other RCs. Today
manufacturers such as Axial and other manufacturers are scrambling to
deliver almost ready-to-run kits, however building your first crawler just
become much easier by tweaking the new HPI 4x4 Wheelie King. Let’s review
the rules, some crawler designs, and then complete a simple crawler
conversion.
Why Rock Crawling?
Fred Medel, Marketing Manager for Tamiya USA answered this question best
in my vendor pole - “In a world of ready-to-run out of box perfection and
expensive groomed tracks, rock crawling allows people to go back to RC basics. You
actually create something yourself and then go out and test it. You don’t
need twenty people, it can be just you, the rocks, and your crawler.”
The Rules
Crawling is regulated by USRCCA rules (US Rock Crawlers Competition
Association) which defines two classes, “2.2” and “Super Crawler”.
Although you can view complete vehicle and scoring rules at USRCCA.com,
the basics are that points are assigned for DNF (Did Not Finish), DNS (Did
Not Start), reversing, touching, repositioning, rollovers, repairs, and
hitting gate markers (usually tennis ball halves) on the course – low
score wins with timing also being a factor. Sounds simple, right? Not
quite, finessing your crawler to a quick low score finish is extremely
challenging, especially with some of the crazy courses that are being set
up that can even include tightropes.
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Class Requirement Highlights
2.2 Class
12.5” wheelbase X 12.5” total width max.
2.2” wheels and
tires up to a maximum diameter of 6”
2-wheel front steering only
Realistic 1/10th scale body
4-wheel drive
Super Crawler Class
No limits on wheelbase or width other than clearing gate widths of 20”
2 or 4 wheel steering allowed
Realistic 1/10th scale body or larger required
4-wheel drive
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Design Flavors
There are a multitude of crawler designs simply because everyone tries to
come up with a better design that is lighter, has more articulation &
clearance, lower CG (Center of Gravity) …etc. Although a number of more
advanced designs are available, the most prevalent chassis in both classes
are based on tri-angulated four-link type suspensions with solid front
axels.
PIC - HPI Wheelie King Axel

{IMAGE - RC2.JPG}
[Caption – Wheelie Kings 2.2 Class type center driveshaft/transmission
Chassis design]

{IMAGE
- RC5.JPG}
[Caption – Wheelie
Kings center transmission axle assembly]
For
reference purposes the chassis of the HPI Wheelie King is a good example
of a fairly standard four link 2.2 class crawler design. It features a
center-mounted motor and transmission powering front and rear axels via
drive shafts and direct linked front steering. The Tamiya TLT1 and Axial’s new Scorpion
chassis also carries forward this same design idea. The tuning problem to
overcome with this design is the chassis torque twist that occurs from
lightly suspended axels/differentials and a center mounted transmission
design. Additionally, with a center mounted transmission, motors, and
electrics the CG can be pretty high, however creative solutions have made
this a competitive chassis design.

{IMAGE
- RC6.JPG}
[Caption – Tamiya Clodbuster Super Crawler Class axel units combine and
axle, tranny, & motor mount]
The
larger Super Crawler class chassis usually features stand-alone front/rear
Tamiya Clodbuster style drive units (combo axle/tranny/motor mount) with motors
at each end suspended with the same type of four link suspension and
steering linkage. This design prevents torque twist from the motors,
delivers a lower CG, and ultimately better traction for this larger 1/8th
scale chassis with monster truck sized wheels. Dual transmissions allow
tuning for a slightly faster front transmission than the rear to improve
overall crawling capabilities. 4-wheel steering allows these massive
crawlers to turn on a dime. The downside to this design is the much higher
overall build cost of dual motors, servos, and potentially ESCs. Since
there is little a well-made Super class crawler will traverse, many people
are going back to the 2.2 sized crawlers to increase the challenge.
These crawler styles mix and match quite a bit with plenty of single motor
Super Crawlers and dual motor 2.2 crawlers. I have seen more than a few
modified 4x4 monster trucks crawling and home-fabricated designs all doing
well on rocks. One recent national top placing chassis was based on a
graphite pan car, so anything goes for a design.
PIC – Axiom Crawler Motor

{IMAGE
- RC7.JPG}
[Caption – Axiom’s 85T crawler motor is a great option for going slow]
Locked In and Going Slow
In order to
deliver the torque required for zero speed vertical approach angles and
guaranteed traction, rock crawlers need locked differentials and very high
torque, high turn, low RPM motors like those used for RC commutator
lathes. Locking the differentials is easy by packing them with Silly
Putty or 5-Minute Epoxy but that method can ultimately fail. Pros use drop
in aluminum “diff lockers” like those for the Wheelie King from RCGUY.com.
For the motors, super slow 55T-85T motors are used singly or wired in
parallel (+ to +, - to -) in the dual motor chassis. Although many
competitors use inexpensive lathe motors, Integy and Axiom offer high
quality brushed motors that produce higher torque and smoother output.
Novak’s brushless crawler system also offers a similar level of RPM, but
much higher torque and longer runtimes thanks to the efficiency of
brushless power. Slow spin motors coupled with a tiny pinion and huge
spur gear equates top speeds of less than 10MPH for the best rock
crawlers. All that power is now delivering a tractor like level of torque
which will provide the control needed to inch over obstacles without
upsetting the chassis and losing traction. Best of all, these low turn
motors will run for a while even on those old 1500Mh packs you shoved to
the back shelf.

{IMAGE -
RC9.JPG}
[Caption - Pull out the diff gears and drop in RCGuy.com differential lockers assure positive non-slip
traction]
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Crawler Design Recommendations
4X4
Design
Front and rear solid fixed axels
Suspension isn’t needed only 60+ degrees of articulation
Locked differentials via JB Weld, Silly Putty, or Diff Lockers
Lots of clearance
Weight as low, wide, and forward as possible
Sticky Pro Line Moab tires have become the standard in both classes
High torque servo(s)
Narrow wheels for better traction
55T-85T lathe motors
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{IMAGE
- RC4.JPG}
[PIC - Pro Line Moab
Tires with narrowed and star cut foams are a standard upgrade]
Tires, Wheels, and Foams…oh my
Ask any rock crawler guy what the most important component in crawling
second to the motor, and they will usually say the tires. Just like a
dirt track, with the right tire and foam setup you are 85% there from a
tuning perspective. Although there are hot debates over what tires are
the best, Pro Line’s Moabs consistently deliver top placements. The Moab
tires are ideal for rock crawling with overly tall, round narrow tube
carcass (vs. flat), tread on the sidewall for added traction, and sticky
M2 compound. Axial and Losi have both followed with similar tire
designs. Foams are typically narrowed and then cut in a star or
wedge/cone pattern to allow the tire to conform over rocks and gain more
traction. Wheel weight can be added via stick on wheel weights inside the
wheels or via about 8oz. of BB’s or plastic airsoft BBs per tire to
further lower CG for these crawlers. Regular wheels will work, however
narrower crawler specific wheels like RPM’s make the tire balloon up to
increase side tire bite and overall traction. Beadlock wheels are also
becoming popular for those that tune tire weights and foams often. A
number of manufacturers offer bolt on “rock rings” that prevent a rock
lodging itself inside a wheel and hanging you up.

{IMAGE
- RC8.JPG}
[Caption - RPM's new Crawler width wheels (left)
compared to regular width wheels (right)]
Electrics
Rock crawling presents some interesting challenges on your electrical
components. The more torque the better when it comes to servos for this
slow moving big wheel’ed segment. Even though single or dual high turn
55T-85T motors are easily within the specs of any beginner level ESC, the
loads presented to the ESC are going to be at or near motor stall speeds
that adds extra stress on the ESC. A good quality high AMP low turn limit
ESC with a full 6V 3Amp BEC output is recommended to deliver uninterrupted
power to both motor(s) and servo(s). The new Tekin Rebel 2 ESC fits these
requirements and has been a very popular economical choice lately at
recent events.

{IMAGE
- RC3.JPG}
[Caption – The Wheelie King Flexes after a Phase 1 conversion]
High, Low, and Flexible
Although there are a few modified crawlers with independent
suspension, a chassis with fixed axels and over 60 total degrees of
articulation are recommended. Articulation allows one end of the vehicle
to remain planted while the other end conforms to the impending object.
Another set of chassis design goals which sound conflicting is to have
very high clearance, but with a very low CG. Typically, the best option
is to mount the RX, batteries, ESC, and servos just above the axels,
however I have seen hundreds of creative ideas that provide lots of
clearance with a low CG.
Let’s Build a Crawler
The easiest crawler build options are either building the Axial Scorpion
crawler kit (electrics not included) or modifying an inexpensive HPI 4x4
Wheelie King. The easy Wheelie King Phase 1 crawler conversion can be
accomplished in under one hour, for less than $20 in upgrades, and will
transform a stock 4X4 Wheelie King into an inexpensive entry level crawler
that will get you out on the rocks fast.
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Phase 1 – Wheelie King Crawler Conversion
-
Remove the rear sway bar
-
Reverse the tread pattern on the wheels for better traction
-
Remove the wheelie bar
-
Clean and pack the differentials with Silly Putty
OR install RCGUY.com diff lockers (an extra $25).
-
Install an HPI 96T Spur and 15T pinion.
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As you can see in the pictures, removing the wheelie bar and rear sway brace shows the clearance and
articulation potential of the Wheelie King immediately. A simple gear
change makes the speed and torque more usable for crawling and reversing
the tires improves crawler traction. Since disassembling the axles is time
consuming, I would install diff lockers to start with instead of taking
the chance that the epoxy or silly putty didn’t hold. You are done. Hit
the rocks or in my case the landscaping in my yard.
In
next month’s article I will complete a Phase 2 build that will add a
longer wheelbase, more power, shifted CG, improved traction and a few
other upgrades. The Phase 2 build will take the Wheelie King to a whole
new crawling level that can even get you through your first set of
competitions.
Have Fun Going Slow
Where every RC
hitting the market is getting faster and requiring either a $10,000
groomed track or a half-mile of abandoned road to realize it’s full
potential, it’s refreshing to see a new category that allows big fun in
a small space. Crawling allows
us to have hours of fun on the nearest rock pile or just climbing around
the landscaping in the yard. You will never look at a pile of rocks the
same way again. Interested in crawling, Stephen has asked me to keep you
updated on the new “go slow” crawling segment.
Next month we build a Phase 2 Wheelie King Crawler StampedeProject
style – See you on the rocks.
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Sources:
HPI – www.HPIRacing.com, Axiom
Motors – www.AxiomMotors.com,
RC Guy – www.RCGUY.com, Tekin – www.TeamTekin.com,
RPM Racing – www.RPMRCProducts.com,
Pro Line – www.Pro-LineRacing.com,
Custom Decals - www.SupersportUSA.com
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