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  New Site Format
   As you know
  StampedeProject has
  become way more than
  just Stampede, Traxxas,
  to now include other
  RC brands, accessories,
  and cars. I still don't sell
  anything, I just
  enthusiastically promote
  those RC products I think
  are great.
   Take a look through
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  I simply had too much
  information for my
  old site format.
  More fun projects
  - Tony


  Please Private Message
  me Here on the
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  all rights reserved 



Note on the New XL-5, VXL Rigs - Although I wrote most of this for the old Xl-1 versions, aside from some x-rings in the piston and upgraded/tougher tranny parts it's all the same but just a different color... in fact (gasp) all the parts are interchangeable... so all my upgrades will still work just fine. :)

RC Tuning Guide This is a great reference for improving you RC's handling - Site - Adobe .PDF

Shock Pre-Load Spacers  - Your stock Traxxas Stampede suspension allows for a lot of tuning capability.  In the bag of extra parts you get from Traxxas will be a shock parts tree with Pre-Load spacers attached.  Everyone including myself wonders which to use or should you use any at all.  The best course of action when just starting out is to go on the stiff side and install the two largest pre-load spacer sets 4mm (1 on each of the rear shocks) and 3mm (1 on each front shock).  These should be installed in between the upper spring retainer and the shock.  As you define your driving style you may want more spring tension (add more pre-load spacers) or less (replace with thinner spacers).  Jumping and general bashing, youSpring pre-load spacers:  1mm (4)/ 2mm (2)/ 4mm (2)/ 8mm (2) should probably error on the stiff side. If you notice your truck bottoming out a lot, you may want to add more pre-load spacers or even buy stiffer springs. To increase articulation for rock climbing and traction for racing on flatter ground, you may even want to go with softer springs.  Spring rates are defined by lbs. so the less lb. rating the softer the spring. 

Traxxas Front 54mm Turnbuckles and Rod Ends - Not a requirement, but everything I have read indicates that the stock front camber links always area just ever so slightly out of whack, enough it drove me nuts and it will be something you will want to upgrade anyway at one point or another.  The camber links control how far the top edge of the tire is from the body. Think of it as steering but on the other axis.  If the camber is aligned on one tire but not the other, the truck will pull to one side or the other and will not steer consistently. To clarify these are the 54mm rods which are 62mm when assembled with the rod ends.  Although I ran stock plastic camber links until recently, the rears take the 72mm turnbuckles (90mm with ends) or better yet the Jato Camber links turnbuckles 58mm #5539 - See below.

Extra Spur and Pinion Gears - Buy an extra Traxxas 87,84,78 tooth spur gear, and a 15 or lower tooth pinion gear.  The pinions are the little ones, the spurs are the big ones.  These are kind of fun to play around with - gear your Pede for off road torque, or for on road speed.
Smaller spur and/or larger pinion = faster = less torque = hotter motor and ESC = short life
Larger spur and/or smaller pinion = slower = more torque = cooler motor and ESC = long life

Stuff for Supercharge that Stocker motor break in - (see Useful Links) - Bushing lube, com drops, Trinity Buggy Blast motor and shock cleaner.  Do it before you run it even once.  Yes, it does make a huge difference.  See this article here     How to Supercharge that Stocker

A Decent ESC electronic speed control - Yes, the ESC model comes ready to run with an Electronic Speed Control, but it limits you to only "17 Turn" motors and above, however I think it's more like 19 Turn +(Exception - See XL-1 electrical upgrade below).  I know people that have run 17T motors on the Traxxas XL-1 ESC, I am one of those people, but without my upgrade it is typically a short lived adventure. 159161

Good choices are the new Traxxas XL-10 which I have heard good things about, the DuraTrax IntelliSpeed 12T Modified Reverse ESC (about $65), DuraTrax IntelliSpeed 8T Modified Reverse ESC (about $80) or spring for everything you will ever need - the Novac Super Rooster ($125) - discontinued but now there is something new and improved.  The Xtra Quake
Car ESC FWD/BK/REV - No Motor Limit for $80 has been highly rated on some forums.  The Tazer 15Turn ESC for $29.99 has also been rated well for the price.  I currently have Novac Rooster and love it.  It limits me to 15 turns, but it is virtually impossible to gear the Stampede with less than a 13 turn motor, so who cares.  And I am happy with the Titanite 15T Motor. As a general rule - The better the quality of ESC and the lower the motor turn limit of the ESC the more punch the motor will have with any given motor.  As a general rule buy a ESC with 2-3 motor turn limit less than the lowest turn motor you will intend to ever use.  For the Stampede, a 14 Turn motor is the lower limit of what is recommended.  Pictured is the MTroniks Sonik4 RV Max (8-turn limit) ESC.  The main reason I purchased it was that it is completely waterproof.  The main reason I don't have one anymore is that it kept catching on fire.

Upgrade the Motor - If you actually follow some break in procedures the Stinger motor isn't bad. The Supercharge that Stocker article from RC Car Action does work, so give that a try for some extra power. I have found that that method of water, cleaning, oiling, needs to be repeated about every week or so to keep up the performance. For a modified motor read on.

For the Stampede, a 14 Turn motor is the lower limit of what is recommended and will produce a shorter run time. Although a motor with less than 14 turns may work, and produce some killer speeds on flat surfaces, you probably won't be able to gear it properly for what the Stampede was Intended for. The quality of ESC does matter. The more powerful the ESC the more instantaneous power that is sent to the motor and more wheelie popping potential your Stampede will have. As a general rule buy a ESC with 2-3 motor turn limit less than the lowest turn motor you intend to ever use. I currently have a couple motors including my favorite the 17T turn Trinity Pro Amber. The 17T is great, although it does wheelie plenty and power wheelie, but not to the extent of a 15T motor, it really did bring the Stampede to life and I am very happy with it and is my favorite overall motor for general bashing.  The 14T-15T motors are a little un-controllable for the novice and can offer to much wheel spin and less torque. The Trinity 17T Pro Amber is a great compromise between power, torque, and longer run time.  From my experience the XL-1 ESC is the most limiting factor of the Stampede's performance.  Upgrading to a good ESC right off the bat, will provide those wheel popping experiences you are looking for.

Custom Cut Stock Tires - Custom_Cut_Stock_Tires.jpg (251879 bytes)If you have a Dremal tool with an appropriate cut off wheel and a 1/8" thick coarse disk grinder bit this a no cost upgrade.  One thing that really drove me nuts about the Stock Stampede Tires was that they really allowed for sideways sliding and 180s during turns way to easily.  Following my upgrade philosophy above, I just couldn't upgrade to those Pro-Line Masher 2000 until the Stock tires had at least seen some good wear.  What I did was copy the a similar tread pattern by cutting the tread with the Dremal cut of bit and them widening the outer cuts to 1/8" using the grinder bit. The results were amazing.  After cutting the tires, the Stampede actually turns and corners without executing a side slide or a 180.  After a couple of months of testing the custom cut tires on everything from road, grass, snow, dirt, and rock, I can say this was an outstanding upgrade. Masher 2000 ($36 for 4 tires) are still considerable better, however this will get you 70%-80% there, add a tougher look to your ride, and allow you to drop that same $36 dollars on something really cool, say... a new motor.

Airing the tires - The act of drilling a 1/8" hole in the tire rim to let the stock and after-market tires inflate and deflate naturally while driving.  Keep in mind that the 1/10th scale RC car of today are light enough that their tires don't need air inside to remain "inflated". ProLine as well as other tire manufacturers will sometimes provide foam inserts on softer compound tires to give the tire extra body and shape. That said the Stock Stampede Terra tires are more than stiff enough to run without foam inserts. Why air the tires? Airing makes a huge difference in overall traction, flat prevention (via suction), and allows the tires and suspension to do their jobs (i.e. absorb shock and keep contact with the driving surface).  The stock rims are sealed and make the Stampede a little bouncy and can take minutes-hours rather than fractions of a second to re-inflate after hitting a harder object. Thumpa, Thumpa, Thumpa.  Drill a 1/8" hole on the back inside of the rim, behind one of the rim's spokes (so you can't see it when the wheel is installed). Try to center the hole as much as possible on the rim. Be careful not to drill through the tire.  This entire process should take about 30 minutes with removal and re-installation of the wheels.

Hub Nut Replacement - Buying extra bag Traxxas self-locking wheel nuts is a great idea.  The nuts will generally not stay put and will need to be replaced after removing/re-installing the wheels every 15-20 times.

RPM Bearing Carriers and 5X11 Bearing upgrade
 This is one the more expensive of the upgrade at about $30-$40, but well worth the price.  Although I haven't run speed tests, people who have claim a 2-5 mph speed boost.  From my perspective the Stampede seems to move noticeably faster and my run times greatly increased. Pretty installation - Buy the front and rear RPM Rustler/Stampede bearing carriers and 8 5x11 bearings, pop in bearings on each side of the RPM bearing carrier, and replace the original stock Stampede Bearing carriers. Remember the order - axel, bearing carrier, little washer, axel post, hub, wheel, nut.  Spring for the better quality Duratrax or Traxxas sealed stainless steel bearings (about $20 for 8 - but usually sold individually).  They may not have the spin of the shielded bearings, but the environment the Stampede will be subjected to the sealed are a much better choice to keep debris out of the bearings.

Sticky Hub Fix and Creating Easy Wheel Spin - Something I noticed before and after my RPM bearing carrier upgrade was the two of my tires would not freely spin when the wheel nut was properly snug.  Originally I thought this was normal, due to the stock bushings, but it turns out that the inside of the hub (Hex Adapter - the plastic piece that keys into the rim), was slightly to thick and was pressing against the washer and in turn the bearing carrier when the wheel was tightened. A easy and permanent fix is to use some extra-fine sand paper and sand down the inside of the hub (about 5-7 passes should do). Some of the four injection molding marks were raised and also needed to sanded down.  Wash it off and give it a spin. You may need to give the hub a second sanding to make it work.  I think you will find you you'll want to do this on all four wheels after you see the huge improvement.

Lightening the Chassis (Jang'ing the Chassis) - How to lighten your RC car’s chassis

I move this aritcle here to improve load time.

The M'Troniks Sonik4 RV Max 8 turn limit ESC - It's waterproof!!! and a WARNING - IT SUCKS!


UPDATE 3-6-2006 - I killed the bulk of this review on this due to the fact I think the design of this ESC is/was defective based on the info I was able to find as well as my experiences. Due to that fact I though the review was simply a waste of space so I trashed it.

The Cliff Notes version is that I blew two, count them two esc's also noting everyone with this ESC has had the exact same problem.  It would run then smoke like a smoke bomb.  In the end I bought a Novac Rooster which I love.


I ended up swapping for a Novak Rooster (the regular version) which at this point I am very happy with.  The only exception being that I really like to get out in the wet and snowy stuff and that Novak is pretty allergic to moisture so I now have a sunny day only toy unless I again venture into another waterproofing project.  HobbyPeople.net were REALLY good about taking everything back twice without any questions, then again I was honest about what happened and judging from the mass of problems similar to mine with the Mtroniks RV Max 8 Turn ESC, I would think that they know there is a design flaw in there somewhere at fault.

Lesson - sometimes the newest thing out there that no one has tested yet isn't the best option.  So much for being the pioneer.

The Project Stampede Ultra-Pede  updated 3-6-06
The infamous Wide-Pede Conversion - The Actual How To for Widening your Stampede -

Documented Wide-Pede Modifications
Read Jang's UltimateRC's Ultimate Stampede.
Read Inadad 's Losi adn HPI arm Wide-Pede Mod
Read on for the Project Stampede Ultra-Pede Mod

Widening the Stampede (AKA Wide-Pede) or the same performed on the Rustler - Wide-Rusty, finally got my attention.  Do I "need" a wide-pede? No. But I did want the ability to rotate my tires front to back without having to swap the front and rear rims, due to the offset difference between the front and rear stock Stampede rims.  I also wanted to actually document the process for everyone out there wanted to do option A or B or C without buying a bunch of junk they didn't need.

What's a wide-pede? Read Jang's UltimateRC's Ultimate Stampede.

In my opinion there are a couple advantages to the wide-pede conversion:

  1. Performance - Typically a slightly longer wheelbase and wider stance.

  2. Improved articulation - better handling

  3. In some of the conversions allows you to rotate wheels from front to back to even out tire wear.

  4. It looks freaking trick.

The Flavors of Wide-Pedes
All the flavors and variations of Wide-Pede's is where the confusion lays for everyone.  We all have a lot of respect for the creativity of Jang's initial conversion, but after re-reading his project again last night and fooling around with the wide-pede conversion I see where everyone starts to stumble. The original wide-pede mod which uses rear Stampede arms as new front arms has some issues, you need to do some pretty serious cutting on the X-brace on the arms to screw the shocks in.  I believe this serious of a arm mod weakens the arms significantly, however that was not Jang's concern as he was lightening the Pede for racing.  Moving the shock positions on the arms also become a complete pain. Additionally, even with Ultimate-Stampede's original and easier wide-pede mod, getting the basics is a little bit cloudy when you actually start doing it with even a slight modification from his original idea.

There is another well documented and easier wid-pede conversion out there by Inadad that uses Losi XT or HPI arms, however this mod again gets into more trimming and cutting on the arms than I am comfortable with, due to the fact that I think the non-Traxxas arms and the modifications weaken the arms at the caster block to much for the average basher.  That said there are a ton of people out there using this wide-pede mod without problems. 

Stuff that is a little unclear is the camber link length and which one to use (I think everyone misses the cut it down part which you don't need with the right camber links), the clearance/binding issue, and the barring carrier which can greatly vary the length of the steering rod needed depending on what carriers are being run on the front such as: stock, RPM, modified stock rear, RPM rear, Rustler Nitro front, ... etc.  Then there is the question of which caster block to use.  Then which way do the arms go.. and on and on we go with questions.  No wonder there are so many questions on wide-pede conversion.

Making Wide-Pede'ing Easier, Simpler, and more Durable

I'm attempting to make it easy for everyone.  Between all the Wide-Pede and Wide-Rustler modifications there are a lot of similarities.  Some are similarities which I think need clarification, some others just need to be changed altogether because they cause problems. Whether you are doing my specific Ultra-Pede modification or any of the others, some of my little innovations and discoveries will help you avoid problems and guarantee success.  Here I will make an effort to list out the parts required for each Wide-Pede mod including what I believe to be the easiest, low modification, and most durable wide-pede conversion to date - the Project Stampede Ultra-Pede.

First off I would like to remind you that with the exception of the Project Stampede Ultra-Pede, all versions require modification, drilling, sanding, and trimming of the arms and servo savers and steering
rods.  There is also a cost of about $30-$40 for the items at your favorite hobby shop which are not "stock" items.  If you have some experience dis-assembling your Stampede then you are probably able to complete the Ultra-Pede mode without any problems only one small shave on each arm is required.  Other conversions require a little more modification experience.  A Dremel tool with a cut off wheel and some grinding and sanding attachments will greatly improve the final product and speed this and future modifications in the process.  Also I am in no way responsible for any damage to your Pede due to this or any other modifications, it will perform the way it performs, which is from my experience is a huge, no, enormous upgrade.

Version A Overview
Jang (Ultimate-Stampede) uses front Nitro Rustler barring carriers and casters, and ball ends for some of the rods (for clearance/prevent binding), shock limiters for spacers, and trimmed stock Stampede steering rods for the front camber link set up, a pair of 94mm (actually they are 96mm) E/T-Maxx front tie rods with Traxxas rod ends and trims the servo saver for clearance. Rear stock pins or optional king pins are used top and bottom to hold everything together. Also requires the use of Nitro Rustler wheels and bearings (that is, if you didn't already upgrade to RPM barring carriers and can recycle the bearings).

Version B Overview
Uses stock or Stampede RPM front carriers, and stock caster blocks with spacers to fit the rear arms as
well as re drilling/widening the lower caster block hole, eyeball socket rod ends, shock limiters for spacers, and trimmed steering rods for the front camber link set up and trimming the servo saver for clearance. Rear stock pins or optional king pins are use top and bottom to hold everything together and a similar 94-96mm length of rod for the new steering rod depending on what carrier you are running. Noting RPM carriers have a single hole and shorter arm than stock.

Version C Overview
Version C is the Inadad Wid-pede Conversion - uses HPI or Losi Arms and uses roughly the same components as Version B.  These are some things I really like about this modification - it's quite a bit easier than Jang's modification, it seems more straight forward, and is better documented.  The Inadad Wide-Pede widens the front arms but maintains the stock wheelbase, that part I don't like so much. Additionally although a well tested conversion, I just think the Traxxas arms are leaps and bounds stronger to start with.  The other thing is I am not going to list this mode below in the grid because Inadad has done a great job detailing this modification out on his own site with part numbers and required items.   This modification sits in between the Ultimate-Stampede version and the Ultra-Pede as far as modification difficulty. 

Version D Overview - Project Stampede Ultra-Pede
My goal in putting this version together was to make it: 1. Easy for a novice to assemble, 2. Use widely available parts, 3. Minimal modification, 4. Super durable, 5. Eliminate inherent binding issues with the Stampede, 6. Allow for complete flexibility of shock attachment to the front of the arms, 7. Allow for a wide variety of options for camber links or even multiple camber links. 8. Can use all four wheels interchangeably.

The Ultra-Pede uses rear arms, stock Stampede or RPM Stampede front bearing carriers, stock caster blocks, two stock piston heads as upper spacers, three small washers as lower spacers, re-drilling/widening the lower caster block holes, captured ball socket rod ends and balls, and 72MM Traxxas turnbuckles for the front camber link set up.  Rear stock pins or optional king pins are use top and bottom to hold everything together and a similar 96mm E-Maxx Tie rod for the new steering rods.  To allow each shock to pivot slightly, each shock is bolted on via a headless screw in bolt, a 5mm pivot ball, two small washers, and a Traxxas plastic shoulder sleeve.  The shocks are secured to the arms via a stock front shock screw.

Version E and Beyond
I will give you the recipe for A, B, C, and D you are on your own from there.

Stuff to Buy and Comparing the Builds.





Stampede Rear arms #3655





Pack Traxxas replacement chassis pins #3739

OR equivalent king pins




94-96mm Electric T-Maxx Front Tie Rod #2338




Team Losi or Duratrax or some other brand captured pivot ball ends and screw in balls with 3/8" long threads.  I used Team Losi #LOSA6000 4-40 X 3/8"

          Although you only need 6 total, typically these come in sets/packs of 4 with 4 ends and 4 balls.

1 sets

1 sets

6 sets

4 Stock kit shock pistons
Included with your original kit or available in the Traxxas Piston Head Set #2669




Packages tiny #4 washers about two packs - I used Du-Bro #323




set Traxxas Nitro Rustler 25 degree caster blocks #2634R



set Traxxas Nitro Rustler steering block spindles #2536



set Traxxas Nitro Rustler Front Wheels/rims #4174

(4 wheels)


5X11 bearings Traxxas # (you need two sets 4 bearing total if you already upgraded to RPM front carriers you can recycle those bearings) 

(4 Bearings)


set new 2.2" wheels to fit the Stampede - Rustler Nitro Rear Wheels #4172
           Just about any standard 2.2" wheel will work with a hex hub just don't buy Stampede Rear wheels.

(4 wheels)

(4 wheels)

(4 wheels)

set of 2 - Stampede Steering Rods/camber links 72MM #2335
Re-use your rods ends or by new ones

Another option that looks like a direct fit is the Traxxas Jato Camber links turnbuckles 58mm #5539 - also a direct fit for rear camber links on the Stampede.


Traxxas Jato Camber links turnbuckles 58mm #5539X - also a direct fit for rear camber links on the Stampede.





set plastic nuts to fit the captured ball threads. Usually are coarser threads than Traxxas shoulder and other bolts. Comes with Traxxas Set Grub Screws 3x25mm T-Maxx 2.5 (8) #3962



Traxxas Shim Set Jato balls #5529


2 Sets

Threaded ball studs female 4-40 - I used Team Losa LOSA6009



(Required for Dual camber links only)

Plastic shoulder shock something or other - looks like this. Included with your original kit or available in the Traxxas Piston Head Set #2669



5mm pivot balls

or do this trick with spare rubber tubing from MisBehavin RC.



Front Shock tower brace
This is basically a cut down 54mm Traxxas Turnbuckles previously used for the Front camber links #1937 and reused rod ends.



(4) 25mm Washer head screws

Traxxas Set Grub Screws 3x25mm T-Maxx 2.5 (8) #3962



Standard locking star washers to fit axel.


4 washers

4 washers



Build spec'ed to race and can be completed with minimal parts.

Ditto, but can use original carriers and blocks and can run same wheels on all four hubs.

Can use original carriers and blocks or Nitro carriers - your choice.

1. Build features Project Stampede exclusive shock tower brace. 
2.  Zero binding points.
3.  Easy for a novice to assemble,
4. Use widely available parts,
5. Minimal modification,
6. Super durable,
7. Eliminate inherent binding issues with the Stampede,
8. Allow for complete flexibility of shock attachment to the front of the arms,
9. Allow for a wide variety of options for camber links or even multiple camber links.
10. Can use all four wheels interchangeably.


Two different wheel types.  Have to Cut into arms.  Hard to change position of shocks on the fly.  Even with trimming some binding points exist.

Have to Cut into arms.  Hard to change position of shocks on the fly.  Even with trimming some binding points exist.

More stuff to buy than other builds.

Some items may be tougher to find.

Heavier build if optional shock tower brace is added.

Optional and really handy
1 - extra set of 4 Duratrax captured ball ends and screw in balls in case you screw some up. 
          You may like these so much that you may want to use these also for the steering linkage.
2 - sets new 2.2" wheels.  Hey your are doing the upgrade spring for new wheels
          Just about any standard 2.2" wheel will work with a hex hub just don't buy Stampede Rear wheels.
2 - sets new 2.2" Tires.  Hey your are doing the upgrade spring for new tires also - your choice
          plus remember the tire glue if you don't have some already.
1 - set new springs - This is really optional - I kept the stock springs in place.
*  - Other upgrades you somehow can justify in your head while doing this mod.

The first thing is to disassemble either the right or left front suspension, however I would recommend that you leave one side or the other in place so that you have a post point of reference so you can put everything back together.

The Project Stampede Ultra-Pede wide-pede conversion only request the removal of 1/2" of the rear top
rib of the arm.  This is the only arm modification required. Although not absolutely necessary, it will allow for bind free clearance of the bearing carrier when it swings all the way in if using the arms it their most downward position.  A Dremel tool with a mini-sanding drum works best for this.

The shock mount holes should be drilled out all the way through one side of the arm with a bit that matches the size of the hole which I believe is a 3/32" or slightly larger (in a standard home drill bit set).

Using a 1/8" bit re-drill and widen the hole in the shock pistons and the caster blocks.  Drilling the pistons is easy, however drilling the caster blocks takes some time because what is really needed is a No. 30 or No. 29 drill bit to make the hole big enough that it does not bind on the chassis pins when installed.  What I did was let the drill bit spin in the caster block hole for a minute to widen the hole a bit.  This is trial and error.  Stop once you can hold the pin in your bar had and spin the caster block, the caster block should not spin freely on the pin or you will need to buy a new set of caster blocks because it will be too loose. I screwed up and went up one bit size during this part, because I was inpatient and had to buy new caster blocks.

After completing these items attach the arms to front of the Stampede with the shock holes facing to the front and the extra bracing on the arms facing down.  The arms should be installed/positioned exactly as the rear arms are installed and not flipped or turned over.  Use one shock piston on each side of the chassis as spacers and screw the chassis pin in.  On the bottom, attach the caster block using 3 #4 washers on only the front side of the caster block.  The arm at this point should fit perfectly and be as tight and secure as stock.

Camber Links
The easiest solution for camber links is to go with the Jato 58mm turnbuckles or the X series set of Aluminum turnbuckles.  They are a direct fit for both front and rear camber links however the
Traxxas Shim Set Jato balls #5529 will need to be put on the ends that are not already installed for clearance with the big washer side out to prevent accidental pop-offs.  Standard turnbuckles 72mm turnbuckles can also used with standard Traxxas ball ends with the Traxxas Shim Set Jato balls #5529 installed on the ends.

Dual Camber Links only Option

Making new camber links - I found that by using the 72mm Traxxas Turnbuckles, which you use for rear adjustable camber links, I did not need to cut or trim the turnbuckles, however I did screw them pretty far into the ends.  Using the 72mm turnbuckles, attach a shortened pivot ball end (use a nail clipper to cut off/trim back 1/4" from one of the long captured ball ends - shorter ball ends may not require this step) to one end and screw down to pretty far onto the rod, then do the same on the other end with a standard captured pivot ball end.  Check the length from the caster block to
the camber link attachment point on the shock tower. Adjust the rough length as needed. Fine tuning can be done after assembly.  Repeat you need two.

Screw in the pivot balls into the back (stock placement) caster block and the back (stock placement) shock tower.  Also on the bottom of the steering servo saver with two #4 washers each.  Attach the threaded female pivot ball studs on the other side of the exposed  threads of each pivot ball. 

TIP - use a electric drill and a crescent wrench or pliers to screw in the ball ends

Making new steering tie rods - I found that there is no such thing as a 94mm Traxxas rod (I couldn't find it) as specified in Jang's Ultimate Stampede project it is 96mm. Using the 96mm Traxxas Turnbuckles attach a ball end to one end, then do the same on the other end with a standard Traxxas bar end. Repeat you need two.  Check the length from the bearing carrier to the steering servo. Adjust the rough length as needed. Fine tuning can be done after assembly.

Attach the steering rod and camber links (front of shock tower to rear of caster block).  The steering attachment to the caster block should be set up exactly as the stock configuration.

Next attach the shocks by first screwing in the grub screw, followed by a #4 washer, 5mm pivot ball (or some such idea), the shock head, that thing that looks like a plastic shoulder bolt in the Traxxas piston head set. Then option A. a washer and nut. or B. your previous front camber link fitted as a shock brace, then a washer and nut. The key here is NOT to crank it down really tight and to assure that the shock does not bind when it pivots. The pivot ball only give you a little wiggle room, and if it too tight the bottom of the shock will not make the swing over to the front of the arm for connection.

Attach the lower shock as normal with the stock front shock arm screw/bolt.  Using, the second from the top hole should give you about stock set up.  But with the Ultra-Pede conversion you can use any of the holes.
  I have changed over to Jato 58mm turnbuckles since publishing this and have attached at the front of shock tower to rear of caster block.  Overall I think this is plenty strong and in my opinion has a more linear path of travel than other mounting options.

Roughly tune the camber links and steering turnbuckles and attach your new wheels and continue tuning the chassis.

There should be no binding.  The cool thing is that you can also run dual camber links on each side, or better yet use the Jato turnbuckle as mentioned above for the camber link.  Additionally you have the flexible mounting options and can move your camber link to also attach on the back of the shock tower.  If you are running your suspension really low snap on the steering linkage on top of the servo saver.  This build gives you ultra flexibility - Have fun with the Ultra-Pede.

All modes - Re-attach the front wheels by assembling onto the axel as normal but add two locking star washers just before screwing on the nut.  The front axel is just a little bit too long and the star washers assure the nut can properly tightened.

Other Pics. - Click on any for a larger view.

Also Dual Front Camber links

This is and example of the flexibility of the Ultra-Pede build I was mentioning above.  They work great and were a permanent modification until I moved to the Jato Camber links.



Traxxas Jato Turnbuckles on Rear for Camber Links

A direct fit is the Traxxas Jato Camber links turnbuckles 58mm #5539 - also a direct fit for rear camber links on the Stampede.  Don't think I am going to bust these.

Make sure you use the captured ball ends and go with the Traxxas washer machine head screws otherwise there will be to much play if you use the stock shoulder bolts without the captured balls.




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